|
Messages
| Members
| Groups
|
168 members
|
​Metal Web News provides a graphical how-to guide to metalworking on topics such as:
* machining * forge * foundry * education materials * welding * fabrication * blacksmithing * jewelry These pages are written and posted entirely by volunteers. You are invited and encouraged to send information covering projects you have completed or are working on. We need how-to articles with details and accompanied by photographs and/or drawings, if at all possible. William Gray Webmaster / Editor  I have been collecting machine tools for some time in the hopes of giving myself something productive to do in my retirement years. I settled in Colorado Springs, Colorado and much to my surprise , I have discovered that there is no industry here. No industry equals few old timers minds to pick for info and advice. I throw myself on the mercies of the group to try to help me turn my elephant graveyard of old iron into something worthwhile. The first thing that I need to do is to level and em place a LeBlond Lathe . I believe it has about a seven horsepower motor powering it. I have the phase converter ready to hook it up, but am wondering how to properly level a lathe this big (my other lathe is a Enco 12 x36 mounted on a cabinet). The machine that I will tackle next after the LeBlond is a K&T No. 2B Universal Mill (I warned you it is a collection of old equipment). If anyone is interested in giving advice on this, I would greatly appreciate it. TIA Uraljawa, CATM93@...
Ringing fit, Press Fit, Intrferance fit, Sliding fit, Close fit, Running fit and many others I am sure .. but what do they mean? Machinery's Handbook has several hundred pages of "definitions" of fit but nothing practical. How do you deal with it and what tips are ther for getting the fit you want? Thanks Glenn Neff Medford, OR
I have added three new pages for older primarily PDF files for the following pages: 1.) Metal Fabrication Build a Air Filter 2.) Welding & Cutting U.S.Army Welding Operations I U.S.Army Welding Operations II U.S.Army Welding Theory Build a GM Delco 140 Amp. Alternator Welder Automobile Powered Arc Welder 3.) Metal Removal 6in. Turret Lathe plus those added earlier. =========== These will contain older files that should offer good hints to the reader concerning ways to implement projects either for the shop or new ideas for salable items. The overall information is dated but they do contain good useful ideas dimensions and parts lists. These pages will contain many more files, once I have the opportunity to edit them and get them posted to the proper pages. I will try to list the files each time I add them to each subject page.
I added the following today: 1.) Education & Reference Page Pipe Thread Information 2.) Metal Removal Page Ideas for a Mini-Mill If time allows, I will be adding more today.
Sorry, I failed to give credit for this article when originally posting it: Also can be seen in the Welding & Cutting section of MWN. Submitted by: David Zielinski of gowelding.org --- In metal-web-news@..., "wgray" <wgray@...> wrote: > > Stick Welding Vertical Up with an E7018 and Taking it to the Next Level > > Vertical stick welding is one of the positions that has a learning curve > that can be really frustrating. Hey, I have been there and know > first-hand! However, once you get past vertical welding all you have > left is overhead for the structural welding positions. Welding vertical > up is not really that hard to do. So here are the basics for running an > E7018 electrode: > > * Set your machine correctly, preferably on the lower range of the > amperage setting. > * Keep your electrode angled to a maximum of 45 degrees pointed > upward. > * Keep your arc length on the shorter side but not touching the > metal. > * Use either a weave or a slight side-to-side motion more like a > zig-zag. > Setting up your welder for running vertical up is just like setting it > up for any other position. The only catch here is you want to be in the > lower range of the recommended amperage setting. This is not set in > stone because every welding machine runs differently. This is even true > for two brand new welding machines that are the same model. It comes > down to how well they are calibrated. For a 1/8 E7018, I run between 110 > to 120 amps. On a 3/32 E7018, I use between 85 to 95 amps. Finally you > want to set the welder just hot enough that the electrode does not > stick. > > The electrode angle is what makes vertical stick welding different from > any other position. When traveling vertical up with the electrode, you > are running your electrode fore hand instead of dragging it. Typically > you just want to have the electrode pointed upward and never go past 45 > degrees. If you go past that angle you will likely lose your shielding > and get porosity. > > The arc length should be short but not so short that you are scraping > the metal. This is due to the extremely short arc length you get that > causes roll over and a very convex weld. With the E7018 electrode the > slightly longer arc spreads out the weld better and gives it a smother > appearance. If you are ever running an E8018 or an E11018 you will > definitely want the arc length on the longer side to keep the weld > smooth. These extra high strength alloy electrodes have a very stiff arc > and need to run much hotter. > > Finally, the welding techniques used are either a slight side-to-side > motion or a weave for wider welds. The E7018 runs best with a > side-to-side motion, but you must always keep moving forward. If you > pause or back up by the slightest bit it will create lumps and rollover. > So that eliminates doing circles and whipping the rod. Learning to do a > tight side-to-side motion with an E7018 is one of the most important > lessons I have learned to date. Later on when you get that motion > perfected you should start learning to weld with your rod angle straight > to the metal (in other words at a right angle) and then start dragging > uphill! Yeah, that's right! Dragging uphill! The book does not cover > this or even mention it, and that is how you take it to the next level! > I have shared this with a few friends and they have found that their > welds became a lot smoother and more uniform. This is due to the slag > that stays behind the rod and keeps the metal flowing more smoothly. As > for the strength of the weld, I have done this on AWS bend tests and > passed military X-Ray tests! Here is the trick to dragging uphill. You > need to strike the arc with the rod pointed directly square to the > metal, then you start to travel. Once you are moving you start to drag > the rod by letting the arc roll slowly toward the direction of travel. > Then just keep moving up and side-to-side at the same time. That's > all there is to running an E7018. It just takes time so you need to have > some patience. Once you pass vertical welding, all you have left to do > is to learn overhead for structural welding! > > See illustration: Click Here > <http://metalwebnews.com/information/vertical-up.jpg> >
|
Welcome to Metal Web News!
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Rainy & 50's - not great. 
1 comment
We use Grouply ID for authenti- cation.